MAXIM explorer Chris Stead slips, slops, slaps and surfs his way through a month in the Maldives…
The Maldives is a mouth-watering prospect. It promises luxury and adventure in a true paradise. As such, when you first arrive and realise that all those photos you’ve seen aren’t photoshopped but legit, it’s impossible not to get pumped up. Too many times when you’re travelling in this post-AI era, a T1000 has helped some influencer turn a polluted, dank beach into a tropical wonderland. Not here. Not the Maldives.
The ocean really is that blue. The trees really are that green. The wildlife is as plentiful, the accommodation as extravagant and the food as scrumptious as it looks. Be it diving, surfing, sailing, fishing or just about anything else you can do with water a part of it, you’ll find it with inviting weather and a picturesque backdrop in the Maldives. But it’s expensive. Especially beer. And getting there is something of a quest. So, how do you get there? Where should you stay? What can you expect?
Getting There
Unless you decide to stay in Male, the Maldives’ crowded capital city, getting from Australia to your destination is a chore. There are no direct flights, so you’ll most likely be transferring through one of Kuala Lumpur, Columbo or Singapore. The cheapest and most straightforward route is with AirAsia. The low-cost airline stands out not just on price, but with the free inclusion of surfboards as part of your luggage.
My experience with AirAsia was positive, as long as you know what you’re getting into. There are no inclusions – entertainment, food, booze, pillows, blankets – but they’re also not that expensive if you want to add in some of those elements. The food is affordable, filling and delicious. Bring a laptop with some downloaded movies and you’re sorted.
Once you transfer through to Male, the journey continues. The Male International Airport is unlike any other, lined with booths that represent each of the resorts and a staff member on hand to help. You’ll either walk directly out to the docks – barely 50m away – and jump on a boat or get shuttled five minutes down the road to the seaplane departure point.
Tip: try and negotiate transfers into your resort package. They’re super expensive and, in some instances, even more expensive than the cost of the flight from Australia!
Surf’s Up
Many visitors to the Maldives make the trek for the multitude of famous waves. I surfed 10 different breaks during my trip and caught many memorable waves. If you’re after long empty peaks, however, there’s not many to be found in the areas within boat ride of Male. Sometimes you get lucky and score great waves with only a few people, but your amazing surf can turn south in an instant when a boat arrives and drops 12 people off at the top of the line-up. All of whom have spent a lot of money getting there and can get very greedy with wave selection. It’s still worth it but keep your expectations in check and hope for a bit of luck.
What’s The Deal With Booze?
The Maldives is a Muslim country, and as such, alcohol is banned in public areas. Don’t try and smuggle any in with you, as they X-ray everything at the airport and will confiscate questionable liquids. On resort islands or boats, however, such rules do not apply, just be prepared for prices that’ll make you faint. While some resorts are reasonable, most locations bleed your wallet dry. Especially when you consider the advertised prices are enhanced by a 26% kicker (10% service charge and 16% GST). If alcohol is a big deal for your adventures, consider an all-inclusive package (or a second mortgage!)
TOP TRAVEL TIPS
The essential eight Maldives must-knows for travellers…
● The so-called wet season allows for better accommodation deals, but it’s not really that wet and it certainly isn’t cold. Expect brief storms here and there, and temperatures consistently above 30 degrees.
● All resorts have access to a reef, but some are shallow. When a house reef is referenced, it usually means that you can swim directly out to the atoll’s edge, with the sudden cliff into deep water being the best spot for wildlife and coral.
● All the resorts I stayed at provided free snorkelling gear in good condition, so there’s no need to lug anything from home.
● Every resort offers great excursions, from swimming with sharks to surfing world-famous breaks, but in most instances they’re not cheap, so be prepared.
● Where possible, consider looking for packages that include at least breakfast and dinner. If you opt to pay for food and drink as you go, you’ll rack up a massive bill in the Maldives.
● Luxury resorts in the Maldives will often provide you with a butler who is on call (via Whats App) to help you with any requests during your stay.
● Tourism is the Maldives’ biggest industry, so is intwined with the culture. The service is magnificent as a result. I found the staff across all the resorts in this article to be friendly and approachable, yet down-to-earth.
● The Maldives is perfectly safe. Not once did I feel in any way uncomfortable or worried about my person or belongings.
The Natural Beauty
Anantara Dhigu Maldives Resort
One of the more accessible resort destinations in the Maldives is Anantara Dhigu, a 30-minute speedboat transfer from Male. The Dhigu resort is housed on one of five islands at the atoll owned by Anantara, but all connected by small boat rides or bridges. It’s a stunning resort, with a mix of spacious overwater villas and beach villas, connected by sandy roads sheltered by a heat-deadening tree canopy. Guests get access to a bike, allowing you to cruise between a variety of restaurants with ease. My villa had its own pool, a stunning sunset view and a little reef to snorkel out to. The overwater villas are also close to a little island dedicated to snorkelling and relaxing away from the central hub. There’s two separate surf breaks as well – a right and a left, the latter of which can be paddled out to directly. I very much enjoyed Anantara Dhigu. It’s easy to navigate and when you’re not living it up in your villa, there’s a fantastic main pool area and the other islands to explore, too. Just note that Anantara Dhigu is family-friendly. But Anantara Veil, which is right next door, offers a couples-only experience if that’s more your thing.
Pros: Gorgeous island, stunning villas, lots to explore, good food.
Cons: Limited house reef experience, basic facilities.
The Sustainability
Soneva Jani
If you’ve only ever seen one picture from the Maldives, chances are it was Soneva Jani. The sprawling overwater villas are made iconic by their two storey waterslides and epic balconies. Inside, they’re just as stunning: it’s hard to believe that recycled materials make up the bulk of the building. I was most taken with the electric roof that sits over your bed: with a button press it can open up, allowing you to sleep under the stars. Soneva Jani is tough to get to, and you’ll have to fork out for a seaplane to make the distance from Male. The reward is a feeling of peaceful isolation with pristine waters. It’s a big island and can be difficult to navigate not just because of the distances to facilities such as the spa, overwater cinema and restaurants, but the dense flora and maze of tracks. The resort’s dedication to sustainability is sure to amaze guests who value our planet, and the cruisy “no shoes” vibe will banish any thoughts of your desk job to the back of your brain until it fades into obscurity. Extra points for the delicious food, luxurious butler service and free chocolate room!
Pros: Incredible villas, amazing food, sustainable, facility rich.
Cons: hard to navigate, seaplane transfer. Long distance.
The All-Inclusive
Club Med Kani
Club Med’s catalogue of five-star resorts around the world are perhaps best known as fantastic family destinations, but in the Maldives, the chain delivers plenty to like for singles and couples, too. Much of that has to do with the value that its all-inclusive approach gives guests, with unlimited – and delicious – food and booze on offer. In a nation where such things cost a bomb, being all-inclusive is a huge bonus. But there’s also so much to do here. I made the most of the great surf break you can paddle out to from the beach, while excursions further afield are more affordable here that at any other resort I’ve come across. There’s free snorkel tours each day, sport competitions, plenty of unpowered water activities on offer and live entertainment. It’s not the most luxurious of resorts, showing its age somewhat. And with the bikes on offer, getting around the large island can be tiring. But the value for money at Club Med Kani cannot be denied. And the transfer by boat from Male is one of the shorter runs, too.
Pros: All-inclusive, plenty of activities, entertainment provided, all ages.
Cons: A little dated, very spread out, one main restaurant.
The House Reef
St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort
When it comes to prestige and privacy, the St. Regis Maldives delivers. It’s tough to get to, with a seaplane transfer your only option. However, with a relatively small number of villas, the reward is a sense of seclusion and community between you and the other lucky guests, alongside the lovely staff. The latter including your own butler. The St. Regis Maldives further stands out thanks to its architecture and easy to navigate design. Materials aren’t ultra-modern, but instead feel traditional and organic to the environment. Indeed, the two-bedroom overwater villas are built in the shape of local fishing ships. The sprawling spa with its iconic Blue Hole Pool mimics the shape of a lobster. And the incredible whale bar, literally the size of a blue whale, lets you sit in the beast’s large open mouth to watch the spectacular sunset over a cocktail. Equally as rewarding is the house reef, which can be accessed directly from the beach or overwater villas. Much like being in an aquarium, I saw everything from manta rays to sharks, and turtles to fish of every shape and colour.
Pros: house reef, easy to navigate, Beautiful architecture, whale bar.
Cons: a bit rustic, Seaplane transfer.
The Modern Luxury
Ritz Carlton Fari Islands
Much to my surprise, the Ritz Carlton Fari Islands is built on a man-made island. I’ve since found out such things are not uncommon in the Maldives, but you wouldn’t know it when your feet are in the sand of the lovely beaches. Full-blooded trees shade the path that feeds through the centre of the three islands that make up the resort, and the surrounding reef is gorgeous to look at, if shallow. What helps the Ritz Carlton stand out is that it’s brand new, having opened in 2021. It’s built to look and feel modern, and if you love your accommodation to be shiny and feature rich, the villas deliver in spades. They’re spacious and incredibly relaxing. There’s isn’t a house reef, so to speak,
but there’s still plenty of action to explore in the waters around the villas, too. I wasn’t overly happy with the resort layout, which puts the overwater villas at one end, and the activities (water sports, tennis court, games room, kids club, gym) at the other. It gets a bit tiring going back and forth, even with a bike. You’ll get your energy back, though – the food quality at the Ritz Carlton was exceptional, offering consistently delicious feeds across the various restaurants. For a change of pace, there’s a ferry that’ll take you to a nearby Fari Marina island, which has more places to eat and additional activities.
Pros: Futuristic villas, incredible food, access to nearby islands, modern facilities.
Cons: Spread-out, exposed to the wind.
The Best near Male
Sheraton Maldives Full Moon Resort & Spa
You don’t have to book in a long transfer from Male to get a legit Maldives island resort experience. Barely a 10-minute boat-transfer from the international airport will bring you to the Sheraton, which has blessed its sizeable island for over 50-years. A family-friendly resort, it offers a varied range of villa experiences around a fantastic central pool and dining district. You’ll barely notice how close you are to Male, with the pristine waters, snorkelling, waves and plethora of water sports keeping you busy. Getting around can be a bit of a pain, as distances between the resort’s facilities and rooms can be significant, but with lots of cultural experiences and competitions (volleyball, trivia, etc.) occurring, you tend to leave your villa for big chunks of time anyway. Something of a jack-of-all-trades, the Sheraton delivers an experience that can cater to honeymooners as much as families, while being close enough to the capital for day trips and exploration. The safe easy swimming experience of the inner lagoon is also a boon.
Pros: Accessible, varied villa options, daily activities, central pool.
Cons: Spread out, smaller villas, limited house reef.
The Best near Male
Sheraton Maldives Full Moon Resort & Spa
You don’t have to book in a long transfer from Male to get a legit Maldives island resort experience. Barely a 10-minute boat-transfer from the international airport will bring you to the Sheraton, which has blessed its sizeable island for over 50-years. A family-friendly resort, it offers a varied range of villa experiences around a fantastic central pool and dining district. You’ll barely notice how close you are to Male, with the pristine waters, snorkelling, waves and plethora of water sports keeping you busy. Getting around can be a bit of a pain, as distances between the resort’s facilities and rooms can be significant, but with lots of cultural experiences and competitions (volleyball, trivia, etc.) occurring, you tend to leave your villa for big chunks of time anyway. Something of a jack-of-all-trades, the Sheraton delivers an experience that can cater to honeymooners as much as families, while being close enough to the capital for day trips and exploration. The safe easy swimming experience of the inner lagoon is also a boon.
Pros: Accessible, varied villa options, daily activities, central pool.
Cons: Spread out, smaller villas, limited house reef.
The Best for Sports
Holiday Inn Kandooma Maldives
If you envisage your Maldives experience to be one filled with surfing perfect waves, diving incredible reefs and big game fishing, then the Holiday Inn Kandooma is a lay-down misère. It’s not the flashiest of Maldives resorts by any stretch, but does offer spacious villas (predominantly on land) with a beachy vibe. And it’s a big island, often requiring you to walk long distances to get to restaurants and facilities. However, what you get as part of your package, is awesome. The surfers in your group can add-on a Perfect Wave pass, which gives you exclusive access (as part of a capped number of 45 other guests) to the legendary Kandooma Right surf break. Plus, free access to multiple other famous breaks during the day via a luxury boat. In addition, if you have a diving certificate, you can indulge in two free dives a day, with equipment included. And the surrounding reefs and dive spots are fantastic. Add in snorkelling and fishing excursions, and a lovely main pool that opens out from the main restaurant, and you’ll have no shortage of things to do. As an added bonus, the price of a beer here is the most affordable I came across.
Pros: Surfing, diving, boat transfer, price.
Cons: Big resort, very close to a local island, not quite luxury.
The Tranquillity
Soneva Fushi
Like its sister resort, Soneva Jani, Soneva Fushi resides on a distant atoll best accessed via seaplane. The reward for this added expense is less hustle and bustle, and an enhanced feeling of being isolated in paradise. The relatively large island is home to a dense jungle, criss-crossed by wide sandy paths for you to cruise through on your provided pushbike. I found the way the sun slinters through the canopy’s shade, wind blowing in the leaves, creates a peaceful sensation that resonated with my soul. While stepping out onto the white sand grants you with Insta-friendly blue waters teeming with wildlife. Soneva Fushi uses every corner of its island, offering a wide array of delicious restaurants and villas with different outlooks, and plenty of facilities (tennis courts, open-air cinema, gym, observatory, spa) to enjoy. Soneva Fushi has a decent house reef, too, as well as massive villas that are all designed with sustainability in mind. While an all-day home-made chocolate and ice-cream room is hard to resist. I felt very at peace during my stay with Soneva Fushi, happy to just alternate between cooling swims and riding beneath the trees without a care in the world.
Pros: Beautiful island, facilities, large villas, isolated.
Cons: Expensive, seaplane transfer.
For the full article grab the October 2024 issue of MAXIM Australia from newsagents and convenience locations. Subscribe here.
